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*this article first appeared on BangkokPost.com February 2026: full article here
Bangkok is a city that never sleeps, at least in the food and beverage department. Blink and you’ll miss another new restaurant opening, a drink launch, or a new nightclub. Guru By Bangkok Post is making sure that even if you blink, you don’t miss out on the new taste tinglers that are worth mentioning, in Bangkok and beyond.
Kōkulabo Bangkok
Kōkulabo in Siam Pathumwan House, is a modern izakaya that blends classic Japanese traditions with a contemporary approach.
Inspired by kōku, the lingering depth and complexity of great food, the open kitchen treats tradition as a starting point, not a limit. Familiar Japanese dishes are reimagined with subtle creativity, while the beverage programme encourages guests to discover new favourites alongside their meal.
The dining room is divided into counter seating at the open kitchen, cosy booths, tables for friends and private dining spaces. The drinks menu is crafted by Bobby Carey and Tom Hogan of Studio Ryecroft and offers more than 45 different Japanese whiskies and sakes, a collection of small producer wines and shochus, and a beer list with offerings normally only found in Japan, like a chestnut shochu. The Japanese-inspired cocktails and highballs, such as the Umami Spritz, is made with a Japanese gin, sparkling sake, dry vermouth mixed with kombu and the brightness of a cherry tomato.
But let's get to the main event. I wouldn't necessarily classify Kōkulabo as an izakaya, but more of a modern Japanese restaurant because the menu offers bits and bobs from all over the Japanese cuisine spectrum. The kitchen is led by chef Wacharun "Run" Imarramsak, a veteran chef whose love of all things Japanese has driven him on a lifelong exploration of techniques and philosophies across Japan and Asia. Chef Run's motto of “flavour first, driven by quality of ingredients and technique" is apparent throughout the menu.
Signature dishes include the Olive salmon, an appetiser is made by lightly searing the salmon, skin on. Chef Run then marinates the fish overnight in a soy and olive oil base and serves it topped with grainy mustard and a lemon slice. The Ebi karaage offers an alternative to the chicken karaage at all izakayas. Using potato starch and corn starch to create a crunch, a touch of cumin is added for flavour.
Undoubtedly, one of the stars is the The Crunch Roll. Chef Run’s interpretation sees him taking a small bit of crispy rice and enoki mushrooms in a roll that is deep fried and then topped with a mixture of tuna, salmon, sea bream and black pepper mayo to create a flavour and texture combination that is perfect for sake. Hot tip: Order a full plate, simply because a half's not enough. The second star would be the Maguro Kimchi, which has so much umami, you'll be dying for more.
Beef saikoro chahan is a refined take on fried rice. Chef Run uses a special wok technique to create a slightly crispy rice which is finished with Hokkaido butter and Japanese F1 steak. Grilled Japanese okra is added as the final component to cut through the richness of the dish,, and who doesn't love grilled okra?!
If this restaurant was closer to my place, I'd be there weekly. It is that good!
